Trench Coat Guide

Cut & Style

Ok, so the double-breasted trench coat. Great for adding a more classic feel to your outfits, they look extremely smart and can also be a great tool to use for those who wish to add a bit of extra bulk to their upper torso. But of course, that also then means that they aren’t always quite as well suited to the slightly fuller man. A single-breasted style – which probably comes more under the title of Macintosh – will be a much greater aid in lengthening the torso, drawing the eye downwards as opposed to across. Wear the coat unbuttoned from the sternum area and fold the collar down and out to create a V-shaped neckline that will lengthen your neck and add width across your shoulders. A single-breasted style will also fall a lot cleaner if you choose to wear the trench open.

The waist belt on a trench is an absolute godsend. When worn tied into a effortlessly home-made knot, not only will it help to break up the torso it will also nip in that waist, therefore accentuating the shoulders and giving the impression of that perfect triangular shape we are all told to strive for. Epaulettes on the shoulders are great for giving a more structured, stronger shoulder and of course, portraying that military trend that is looking to stay with us until the end of time.

As for the length of the coat, I personally wouldn’t advise any man under the 6ft mark to wear a trench that finished far below their knees, and although a trench coat can be just as easily worked into both smart and casual outfits, baggy trousers/jeans just don’t quite fit that slim-line, sharp look that we have just created. Sleeve length is somewhat down to personal preference but I favour them sitting as the sleeve of my blazer would, just above the wrist bone. If people can see your under-layers poking out through your sleeves or maybe even a cheeky glimpse of watch, well, that’s just perfect!

Colour

For a staple trench coat that will work with both a smart/smart casual/casual looks, my number one choice in terms of colour would be a navy blue every time. It doesn’t look quite as formal as a black trench does and isn’t half as contrasting against other colour. Brown shoes, black shoes, jeans, chinos, trousers, city shorts… they all work perfectly.

My second choice would be a neutral tone such as a stone, camel, khaki or a light brown. If wearing louder colours/prints as a base layer, a trench of any of the above tones will help to re-neutralise the outfit. The only thing to be slightly weary of when choosing lighter tones is to avoid washing yourself out (much like grey does) – oh, avoid grey at the moment by the way. If of a lighter skin tone, opt for a slighter stronger, deeper stone or camel colour in order to add a bit of contrast against your skin tone.

Bold colours such as electric blues, burgundy reds and forest greens will add a much-needed burst of colourful energy into yours outfits during these final winter months. This possibly isn’t the route to go down however if you are looking for a staple trench, but if you are in fact looking to add to an already established collection, now is the time to take the leap my friend.

Modifications

With a garment such as a trench coat, I believe it is worth spending just that little bit extra – or in some cases a lot extra – for quality. However, realistically not all of us are in a financial position to be splashing out on Paul Smith trench coats and Aquascutum macs as we please, and so turn to our local high street retailers for guidance.

For those of you like myself, who watch the Burberry shows every season sighing in bitter jealousy at a collection of trench coats that I will possibly never be able to afford, don’t give up all hope just yet, as there are a few little tricks we can pull to turn that high street trench into your very own high fashion creation.

Trick 1: Change your buttons. A massive give away that most high street pieces are in fact high street, are those poor quality, plastered on every garment, plastic buttons. Replace them with a whole new set of vintage wooden buttons and your final garment will be almost unrecognisable from that basic Zara trench it once was.

Oh, that reminds me actually. Trick 1 Part b: Learn to sew on a button. It’s really rather easy once you’ve attempted it a couple of times and will save you a fortune in tailoring expenses.ished article than one that is unlined. Firstly make sure you know of a good tailor that is capable of re-lining coats, next take a trip to any good quality fabric shop and simply choose the cloth that you can not live without. Also, if you often tend to wear the collar of your trench stood up then you might even want to consider buying a bit of extra material to add a strip to the back of the collar? Just a thought.

Trick 3: Vary your belt. Instead of sticking to that matching material belt that comes along with your coat, try adding a thick leather jeans belt instead. I have even seen men rocking – and successfully pulling off – patterned scarves and even pieces of rope hooked through those belt loops. I am fully aware that this one won’t be a tip suited to all as it is sometimes deemed to be too ‘girly’, however, it really can look great.

Of course there are a number of other ways to personalise your outerwear, adding brooches/badges, customising the epaulettes etc. But by simply changing your buttons and adding a completely different lining to your £70 Topman trench coat, the chances of someone else having that exact trench, with that exact lining, with those exact buttons drastically reduce to near impossible – you now own a one-off piece.

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New Season Styles

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NEW YORK FASHON WEEK FAVORITES

DKNY

DKNY took over Times Square on Wednesday evening, jumbotrons included. A row of dapper gentlemen in sleek grey suits lined the windows of the NASDAQ Marketsite, looking relaxed compared to the bustle two floors below. To complete the Times Square takeover, the brand’s ad campaign ran on several video screens outside, broadcasting the modern classics for everyone passing by. The slim silhouettes echo the return of Mad Men era style. The tailored pieces boasted a simple grey palette, but took on a whole different feel when paired with statement making shoes. Other key pieces from the collection include ombre knits from pureDKNY, the weekend wear label, and a three-button blazer. We passed a faux boardroom filled with models on the way out—bringing the collection’s office chic vibe full circle. 

STANDOUT: The tailored grey suit is easy to dress up (as shown) or down with a henley and chukkas.

 

 

 

 

Lacoste

Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s first full collection for Lacoste incorporated luxe elements while staying true to the sportswear soul of the iconic French brand. The co-ed show focused mostly on women’s, but we got a glimpse of his new direction, which mixed sportswear and tailored pieces and featured cool cotton blazers and hooded anoraks. The palette consisted of crisp white, navy and royal blues, and military green with some subtle color blocking. Structured blazers were paired with shorts to showcase the elements of fine tailoring. 

STANDOUT: This olive jacket that hits right at the waist, mixed with the navy and olive combination, creates an eye-catching—but practical—look. The oversized pocket flaps add an architectural element for a modern feel. 

Photo: Courtesy of the designer 

 

Richard Chai

Downtown designer Richard Chai took a break from his typically somber New York palette this season and let his man bask in eye-catching, island-acid colors (tangerine with pop of bright and a hard-edged turquoise anyone?). His signature slouchy silhouettes and doses of playful patterns remained true to his DNA, though the tropical prints were a welcome breezy departure. If guys aren't up for the bold statement of a striped double-breasted jacket, they could keep their flair grounded with slick neon-soled brogues. 

Standout: Those neon-soled shoes. Wear them with a suit and you can keep it all business up top, party on the bottom. 

Photo: Courtesy of the designer 

Michael Bastian

There was a spark of excitement in the air at New York designer Michael Bastian’s show this week. After taking a season off from his eponymous collection, editors, stylists and fashion types were eager to see what the master of All-American style would come up with for spring – and they weren’t disappointed. The designer’s well-developed collection was an homage to James Dean that played out in references from a classic red windbreaker to cuffed jeans to the chunky 50’s eyewear. But Bastian’s rebels did have a cause: looking devil-may-care handsome in unlikely mixes of tailored clothing and sportswear. Each outfit showcased Bastian’s skill of mastering the details but also combining them in unexpected ways. A slim-cut cargo with a pinstriped blazer? Rugby shirts under tailored clothing? Absolutely. His man looked daring, but never reckless. 

STANDOUT: If you take away one thing from this collection, it should be lessons on fearless layering and combinations. As long as the fit is right and the pieces are well made, feel confident in mixing your weekend and work wear. 

Photo: Courtesy of the designer 

Fratelli Rossetti

This iconic family-run footwear brand has carefully reinvented itself since LA-based shoe designer George Esquivel began collaborating with them 2 years ago. Combining Fratelli Rossetti’s old world Italian craftsmanship with Esquivel’s downtown esthetic—which means washed leather and funky colors—the result is shoe nirvana. The idea here is pairing unusual colors with an otherwise classic shoe. Think slate blue, hunter green, eggplant and carmel in suede lace ups, woven leather loafers and elegant dress shoes. If color’s not your thing, fear not. The collection also includes more traditional black, brown and tan options. 


STANDOUT: White leather and tan suede thick-soled wingtips worn with a suit, jeans or shorts.

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Citroen Taranis

 

 

 

 

Citroen Taranis

 

Is it a car, or is a transformer pretending to be a car? The jury is still out on that one. But Peter Norris’ Citroen Taranis concept is an interesting design direction that the current crop of off-roaders (or if you live in London, Chelsea Tractors) should take note of.

The name has been borrowed from the Celtic god of thunder, who is normally depicted holding a wheel in one hand and a thunderbolt in the other. The cabin’s height off the ground is indicative of the Taranis’ intentions as an off-road vehicle. To counter the raised cabin, Morris installed four electronic motors inside each of the four wheels to bring down the car’s center of gravity, while also paying homage to its Celtic namesake.

The arms that connect the wheels to the cabin have been double jointed, allowing for large suspension setups to soften and adjust to the terrain. They can also turn in the direction of travel, reducing the size of the Taranis’ turning circle.

Not forgetting an element of style with the off-roader, Morris has dropped in a pair of gull-wing doors and a high-spec interior. So when do we get to drive one? Sadly, this is just a concept that forms part of the UK designer’s expanding portfolio. Someone give this man a job.

Pictured here:
The two-seater cabin looks like it's been set on a monster-truck chassis.

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How To Know If She Likes You

• What You Need To Know
• As soon as you start wondering whether she likes you, you lose your cool.
• Take control: Realize that how you feel about her is more important than how she feels about you.
• Attract incredible women by being your true, authentic self.

"The minute you walk around wondering, 'Does she like me?' you’re basically giving your power away to her..."

No matter what age you are, no matter what stage in life you’re at, the moment you feel that you like a woman, you start terrorizing your friends with this question: “Does she like me?” You rally all of them. You might go out in a group or call friends up individually and ask each of them, “Can you let me know what you think -- does she like me?” And you'll start going over some of the things she's done. You’re starving for their opinions. 
Here's the issue -- the issue we all forget: The minute you walk around wondering, “Does she like me?” you’re basically giving your power away to her, without even realizing it. Then, the next time you see her when you go out on a date, you're not really yourself because you're so caught up with wondering if she likes you and wanting her to like you that you hold back who you really are. And in dating, isn't that the whole point? 

In order to get the ending right -- to finally find that great woman you could spend eternity with, or at least happily ever after for two years -- you need to find someone who likes you (and is dating you) for who you are instead of liking you for who they think you are. You need to stop worrying about if she likes you, and you need to flip the switch and the power. You need to think: Do you like her? Is she somebody you can hang with? Is she somebody you can envision going on vacation with? Is she somebody you'd like to wake up with in the morning? Is she sexually compatible with you? Do you like the way she moves? Do you like the way she talks? Do you like the way she takes care of herself? And most important, are you able to be 100 percent authentic in front of her? Are you being yourself, or are you just being a version of yourself in order to get her to like you? 

The minute I stopped worrying whether a girl liked me and started being myself in every situation, I had an endless supply of women liking me. The funny thing is, I didn't like many of them. I found they were actually spending time trying to get me to like them instead of just being themselves.

So I've been where you are, and I've seen both sides of it. And let me tell you, if you flip the switch and start to do the things I advise above, you're never going to call another friend to ask whether the girl you like likes you back. You're never going to worry about whether she likes you. You're going to have complete control, complete power -- and you're going to attract the most incredible women. The eternal question “Does she like me?” won’t be a question anymore.

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Top 10: Ab Exercises

Year after year, countless men swear that they will work their abs and achieve the elusive six-pack; most of these men fail. The reasons for wanting great abs are simple: you'll feel good about yourself and therefore boost your self-esteem and girls love them. Here are 10 of the all-time best exercises for your abs. They will help you to whip that gut into shape. Just remember that without a proper diet and a fat-burning cardio regime (such as high intensity interval training), you're ab crunches will be in vain.

Number 10

Reaching Crunch On Ball

  

Instructions: Sit on a Swiss ball with your feet shoulder-width apart on the floor. Lean back, so that your back is almost parallel to the floor. Straighten your arms and point them toward the ceiling. Contract your abs, as you would for a crunch, while you reach for the ceiling with your fingertips. Hold the contracted position for three seconds. Slowly lower yourself back to the starting position. Do 10 reps.

Number 9

Twist And Crunch

   

Instructions: Place a mat on the floor and lie down on your back, with your hands by your ears and your legs perpendicular to the floor. Twist your hips slightly by contracting your left oblique muscles; hold that position. Using your abs, bring your right elbow across your body to the outside of your left knee. Slowly return to the starting position. Repeat the movement on your right side. Do 10 reps.

Number 8

Russian Twist

   

Instructions: Sit on a decline bench, with your legs firmly under the pads. Lean back slightly, so that your thighs and torso form a 90° angle. Extend your arms in front of you, so that they form a 90° with your torso, and clasp your hands together. Keeping your back straight, your chest out and your arms straight, make a semi-circle with your arms. With your abs flexed, move as far as you can from right to left and left to right, and do the motion as quickly as you can without sacrificing proper form or range of motion. Work your way up to 60 seconds of continuous movement.

Number 7

Hip Raise/Leg Raise

 

Instructions: Lie down on a flat bench with your legs up and perpendicular to the bench (hold the bench behind your head for stability). Lift your hips slightly off the bench by contracting your lower abs, hold for three seconds, and lower your hips. Keep your back flat on the bench, your legs straight and lower your legs until they almost form a straight line with the rest of your body. Hold for a count of three and bring them back to the starting position. Do 10 reps.

Number 6

Woodchop

 

Instructions: Add some weight (try 25 pounds) to a multipurpose pulley machine and grasp the handle attachment at shoulder height with your left hand. Square yourself to the machine and take a few steps to the right (away from the machine) until there is sufficient tension. Stand with your feet shoulder-width apart, bring your right arm across your body, and clasp your hands together while holding the handle. Keeping your arms straight and at shoulder-height, use your abs to bring your arms across your body, as though you were making a woodchopping motion. Bring them back to the starting position. Do 10 reps on each side for the excellent core workout.

Number 5

Jackknife

     

Instructions: Place a mat on the floor, lie down on your back and extend your arms above your head. Simultaneously lift your arms and legs toward the ceiling, until your fingertips touch your toes (if you can). Slowly return to the starting position. Do 10 reps.

Number 4

Windshield Wipers

       

Instructions: Place a mat on the floor and lie on on your back with your arms in the "T" position for stability. Lift your legs so that they are perpendicular to the floor and rotate your hips, keeping them in contact with the floor, so that your legs move from left to right, in a "windshield wiper" motion. Make sure to move in a slow and controlled manner. Do 10 reps.

Number 3

Reverse Crunch

    

Instructions: Lie down on a bench with your knees bent and your upper legs at a 90° angle with your torso; grab the bench above your head for stability. Use your ab muscles to pull your knees toward your chest until they reach your elbows. Hold the crunch position for three seconds and return to the starting position. Do 10 reps.

Number 2

Side Crunch On Ball

     

Instructions: Firmly place your right hip on a Swiss ball and lean into the ball; ensure that your torso is off the ball. Support yourself by pressing the soles of your feet against the bottom of a wall. Place your hands by your ears, and contract your left oblique muscles, lifting your torso up as far as you can. Hold for three seconds and release. Do 10 reps and repeat on the opposite side.

Number 1

Front Plank On Ball

  

Instructions: Rest your elbows on a flat bench and the balls of your feet on an exercise ball. Contract your abs so that your body is parallel to the floor and there is no dip in your lower back. Hold the plank position for 60 seconds.

Rock-Hard Abs

Throw a few sets of these ab destroyers between your other exercises at the gym, and within a few weeks, you'll be amazed at your newfound ripped and rock-hard midsection. Just be cool and don't become one of those guys that whips off his shirt to show them off at every opportunity.

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